ReTreats: Trout House | Chow | Bend | The Source Weekly - Bend, Oregon

Coverage for Central Oregon, by Central Oregonians.
100% Local. No Paywalls.

Every day, the Source publishes a mix of locally reported stories on our website, keeping you up to date on developments in news, food, music and the arts. We’re committed to covering this city where we live, this city that we love, and we hear regularly from readers who appreciate our ability to put breaking news in context.

The Source has been a free publication for its 22 years. It has been free as a print version and continued that way when we began to publish online, on social media and through our newsletters.

But, as most of our readers know, times are different for local journalism. Tech giants are hoovering up small businesses and small-business advertising—which has been the staple for locally owned media. Without these resources, journalism struggles to bring coverage of community news, arts and entertainment that social media cannot deliver.

Please consider becoming a supporter of locally owned journalism through our Source Insider program. Learn more about our program’s benefits by clicking through today.

Support Us Here

Food & Drink » Chow

ReTreats: Trout House

Clams and mussels at the Trout HouseIn a departure from our usual format, we sent writer Alice Finer in search of a different kind of



Clams and mussels at the Trout HouseIn a departure from our usual format, we sent writer Alice Finer in search of a different kind of dinner pairing: a day of play in the great outdoors followed by a memorable meal at one of the many far-flung restaurants around the region. Look for other destination dining stories under the Retreats flag in upcoming issues.

Last week, with Memorial Day looming, my organizational skills severely lacking and a dramatic economic recovery increasingly unlikely, it was time to come to terms with the collapse of my summer's more ambitious plans. But living in the land of plenty when it comes to recreation, I could instead embark upon a season-long staycation here in Central Oregon to rival my most riveting excursions to date. Unfortunately, in all my excitement, pragmatism flew out the window, and I kicked off the summer with a tour of the Newberry National Volcanic Monument on a holiday weekend along with every visiting man, woman and their six screaming children. I ended up on a trail of tears, the highlight of which was a full panic attack about 50 feet into the mouth of the Lava River Cave that sent me screaming back into the light while grannies and preschoolers skipped by me with their lanterns and wide-eyed enthusiasm.

Famished and refusing to let that be the end of my local adventure's first day, I headed to nearby Sunriver to wash off the humiliation with a meal at one of the area's most idyllic dining spots, the Trout House. Flanked by the marina on one side and the Sunriver Nature Center on the other with the Deschutes flowing out back and a view that reaches Paulina Peak to the front, the setting cannot be beat. The recently renovated dining room is lovely with tables facing the river, but if at all possible, get a seat on the patio. It's glassed-in with an open ceiling, so you're outdoors with a near panoramic view but protected from the wind and the stream of boaters floating by outside.

The Trout House could probably get by on atmosphere, but luckily the kitchen holds its own. The breakfast, lunch and dinner menus feature relatively straightforward but interestingly prepared regional dishes with many seafood options, as you might imagine with a name like Trout House. To start, I went with steamed Manila clams and Pacific mussels ($12) and a half dozen Barron Point oysters ($14). The clams and mussels, served in a sweet vermouth broth with small chunks of prosciutto, roasted tomatoes, coarsely chopped garlic and red onion and a couple of thick pieces of garlic bread, were superb. The Barron Points, faring from Washington, were fresh and fruity as is typical of Pacific oysters, and came with a lemon-black pepper mignonette that brought out the flavor nicely.

Entrees include a nice variety of proteins from pan-seared duck breast with a ginger orange port glaze to braised wild boar. I couldn't resist the sound of shrimp and Portobello mushroom gratin ($27). The shrimp were marinated in garlic, olive oil and rosemary, topped with breadcrumbs and set in a circle on a large charbroiled Portobello mushroom cap sitting on a bed of jasmine rice and cioppino broth. I didn't get much in the way of seafood flavor from the cioppino, which is a traditional Italian tomato-based fish stew, but the dish was successful nonetheless. The Carlton Farms pork chop ($24) grilled on the bone and topped with brandy garlic butter and scallions came with a tasty potato latke ­- a nice break from traditional sides ­- and sautéed zucchini and red onions. The plate was beautiful and the meat was perfectly cooked.

With first-rate Pacific Northwest cuisine, a nice selection of regional wines and stellar Central Oregon scenery on all sides, a trip to the Trout House is an excellent reminder to locals of why we live here and a quality sales pitch for those lucky enough to be visiting our neck of the woods.

The Trout House

57235 River Rd., Sunriver, 593-8880. Breakfast, 8 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; lunch, 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; dinner, 5-9 p.m.; happy hour, 3-6 p.m. (closed Tues. and Wed. winter)

About The Author

Add a comment

More by Alice Finer

  • Repeat Offender: Central Oregon's bad-boy Top Chef defends his title

    Kokanee Cafe's Roscoe Roberson takes home the top honors again at this Bite of Bend
    • Jun 30, 2010
  • Little Bites: Repeat Offender: Central Oregon's bad-boy Top Chef defends his title

    Another Top Chef Competition at Bite of Bend has come and gone, leaving delicious memories in its wake (and for us judges the residual heartburn and sunburn that go along with them!).
    • Jun 30, 2010
  • Après Ski Pub Crawl! - Eat and drink your way down the mountain for a song

    There are pros and cons to situating a ski resort on National Forest land, but one of the biggest cons for Mt. Bachelor - that last call for food and alcohol coincides with the last chair at around 4 p.m. - can also be a huge pro. Since après ski up top lasts only a few minutes, local businesses all the way down the mountain and into town roll out some excellent happy hour options to lure in passers-by looking for post-play refreshments. Whether you're a vacationer or a local, a hungry winter sportsman or simply a bargain hunting day-drinker looking for a deal, there's après ski merriment to be found around every corner. Set yourself up with an appetite and a designated driver and embark on your very own après pub-crawl down the hill - a must for any winter in Bend. Here's one possible route, in geographical order:
    • Dec 30, 2009
  • More »