Over the last three years, the entire resort has undergone some drastic remodeling, changed its name and completely overhauled the dining facilities. What used to be a dark room characterized by a bad '70s motif, the resort's fine dining restaurant, Seasons, is now surrounded by big windows with views of the new pool area and patio seating.
Starting with appetizers, our party of four began with the Cracker Jack Oysters ($10) - big oysters coated in pulverized Cracker Jacks and fried to a crispy crunch. Slightly sweet, they were the best of the appetizers. We then moved on to the Carrot-Ginger Bisque ($3) which I found bland, even though it had some heat, The Tuna Salad ($13) had an unusual purple dressing surrounding seared ahi slices. It was slightly sweet with the intention (I would imagine) of offsetting the spice of the jalapeno and lime crust on the fish. It ended up being conflicting rather than complimenting. We ended our appetizer course with the Seafood Pistou ($12), a dish that comprised mussels, clams and halibut cooked in a pesto broth that lacked punch. However, the crusty toast for dipping was a nice touch.
We fared better in the dessert arena, although the kitchen was out of the Pear Tart that I had my heart set on. I was also disappointed not to see the farmstead cheese plates as the online menu shows. Instead, we got a scoop of walnut ice cream, berry cobbler ($7) and the Half Baked Chocolate Cake ($8). The walnut ice cream was dense, creamy and packed with walnuts. The berries in the cobbler were plump and sweet, but the apples were a bit tough. The chocolate cake was rich, warm and decadent served with a tart raspberry coulis.
If effort alone could make a good meal, Seasons would be serving up a first class dining experience. But the bigger part of the equation is inspired recipes and consistent execution, which Seasons has not yet mastered.
Seasons at Seventh Mountain Resort
18575 SW Century Drive, 693-9143,
5:30pm-9pm seven days a week